The Bay Horse Inn, Main Street, Burythorpe

11:50am Saturday 25th October 2008

THERE are worse places to get lost than North Yorkshire.

The scenic ruins of Kirkham Abbey, moody skies and autumnal countryside make pleasant Sunday morning viewing, but with rumbling tums, unreliable internet generated directions and no decent road signs to speak of, our patience was wearing thin.

We were actually looking for The Bay Horse, in Burythorpe.

Last time I was there it was to go foraging with the then head chef, Dan Farrall, – I got lost then too.

But I remembered the pretty pub, with hazelnuts, damsons, crab apples and elderberries growing in its car park, and thought it would be worth the effort.

When we eventually arrived, it was.

The Bay Horse pulls off cosy and chic all at the same time. Outside, greenery climbs up the walls and sage-coloured window frames, while a crackling fire and flickering candles draw you in.

There are several different bar and eating areas inside, decorated with shelves of books, candles, paintings and ornaments and, at 12.30pm, we pretty much had the place to ourselves.

The friendly, relaxed staff quickly welcomed us, then let us nestle in comfy chairs by the fire while we studied the menus.

The Sunday lunch menu is excellent value, offering one course for £6.95, two for £9.95 or three for £11.95.

There are four starters, including soup, prawn cocktail and deep-fried goats cheese with warm green bean and beetroot salad.

Those choices are on the a la carte menu too, but priced separately, along with freshly steamed mussels (£5.95) and seared scallops with Granny Smith salad, roasted hazelnut pesto and aged balsamic syrup (£6.25).

For main courses, sirloin steak with hand-cut chips, onion rings, tomatoes and mushrooms; traditional fish and chips and rump of locally reared lamb on the al a carte menu were tempting.

Sunday lunchers, however, can choose from roast topside of beef with Yorkshire pudding and traditional gravy, roast leg of lamb with mint sauce, Scottish salmon with a mustard dressing or wild mushroom and blue cheese risotto.

I started with chicken liver paté with homemade fruit chutney followed with roast topside of beef.

John went a la carte, and ordered white onion soup (£3.95) and rump of locally reared lamb with thyme-roasted Jersey royals and buttered broad beans (£14.95).

After five minutes or so, we were taken to the restaurant; a small, rustic, yet stylish, area with plum-coloured walls, tall leather chairs and wooden tables. We were next to an old range, which was decorated with flowers, red storm lanterns and melting candles, while glass jars of fresh pink and lilac flowers and terracotta pots of grains topped with tee lights were on each table.

A bowl of crusty, fresh bread was already there for John to dip into his soup, as well as a jug of water – a nice touch.

Warm, cosy and comfortable, I watched the wind chase red, yellow and orange leaves down the street from the window, while spreading smooth chicken liver paté and sweet, apple chutney on to chunky slices of brown toast, John happily mopping up the creamy soup with bread.

We were the only diners for ten minutes or so, but the other tables gradually filled up and it was nice to have background chatter.

Our mains soon arrived, mine dominated by a huge Yorkshire pudding, which reminded me of one of those massive American-style muffins, with a thick slice of beef, roast potatoes and parsnips, covered in yummy meaty gravy and a dish of carrots, green beans and broccoli.

Despite its size, the Yorkshire was tasty and light, while the beef was cooked medium, perfect for me.

John’s lamb was tasty and tender, the potatoes delicious. It was a generous portion, but he was pleased he had ordered the extra veg.

For dessert, Sunday lunch options include chocolate and pecan brownie with chocolate ice-cream and pouring cream; treacle sponge with homemade toffee sauce or homemade profiteroles with a rich chocolate sauce.

Everyone else has the addition of crème brulee with vanilla ice-cream, summer fruit cheesecake and the local cheese board with apple, oatcakes and homemade chutney.

I chose the long slice of treacle sponge, decorated with two plump raspberries and drizzled with toffee sauce and pouring cream. It was sweet, light and incredibly moreish.

John chose the brownie, which was also surprisingly light and served with ice-cream and a raspberry. He enjoyed it, but found it a little bitter for his taste, and looked at my empty plate with envy.

“If it were socially acceptable, I’d be licking your plate by now,” he said, mournfully.

Actually, if it were socially acceptable, I’d have licked it myself – a pretty good indicator of how much we enjoyed our visit to the Bay Horse.

As we settled the bill of £41.90, which included three Pepsis and an Appletise, we realised the bar had filled up; not at all surprising after the fantastic food and service we had experienced ourselves.

We will definitely be back – but a few more road signs to help hungry diners find their way would not go amiss.

Charlotte visited The Bay Horse on Sunday, October 19, 2008 The Bay Horse Inn, Main Street, Burythorpe, near Malton.

Tel: 01653 658302