Costa Coffee, 20 Market Street, York

12:45pm Friday 11th May 2007

It might be argued that if you have visited one branch of a national chain, you have visited the lot.

True, the menus and prices should be identical, but the environment certainly differs.

Take the latest opening in York.

With windows overlooking Market Street and Feasegate, it is something of a goldfish bowl. Having said that, we were not conscious of passersby looking in on us, as we people gazed.

The venue was busy when we arrived. The queue stretched from the servery to the door.

The manager and one assistant were serving with speed and efficiency.

Pre-packed sandwiches and paninis were in a separate cabinet along with chilled drinks.

As was to be expected the full range of coffees were available.

Cappuccino, for example, was priced £1.90, £2.20 or £2.45, depending on size. Ann opted for the regular, which was frothy and most acceptable.

Choosing from the array of muffins, croissants and tray bakes proved a challenge. They all looked appetising, including the caramel shortbread and toffee Florentine.

Finally, we decided to share an almond croissant and raspberry/almond bake each priced £1.65. Both could best be described as more-ish!

I squeezed two cups of tea from the pot (£1.50), which came with fresh milk.

When a venue is busy, staff have to decide whether to serve customers or clear tables. We always argue that there is nothing less inviting than uncleared tables.

Here the priority was to serve customers and it was 15 minutes before someone appeared to remove used crockery.

There was lull in business. The manager first swept the pavement, then transported tables and chairs outside. Given the weather, you could join the growing number of outdoor snackers.

We couldn't make up our minds if this was a venue for quick refreshment or a place to linger.

Customers seemed to be divided.

Some leisurely read papers while others were in and out quickly.

How did this venue differ from other outlets in the chain?

In other branches we don't remember noticing coffee beans set in the tabletops and the door handles. Maybe we have just not been observant in the past.